Edward Enninful reflects on Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Compared to the Nineties.
An unexpected discovery while riding the tube in 1988 changed forever the path of a young Ghanaian arrival to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was quickly drawn into the city's electric 1990s cultural landscape, progressing from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of the iconic i-D.
"That time was the zenith of the Young British Artists – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he remembers. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I knew we’d be kindred spirits. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I miss that energy."
If Enninful sounds wistful, he is far from alone. Recently, a fond idealisation of the 1990s has grown intense. Yet since that time, Enninful feels a significant change. "In my view, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s worldwide."
A Cultural Backslide
This shift is hard to ignore: the resurgence of nationalist groups, the backlash against progressive values, and the return of Eurocentric beauty standards. Replacing the hope of the previous decade, currently a different political personality looms as a potential leader. Furthermore, the Union Jack, once an emblem of national pride, has sparked debate once more.
According to Enninful, the antidote has always been to promote culture in all its variety. This was the driving force behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a celebration of modern Britain, showcasing a wide range of prominent faces from literature.
"Those in a position of influence should use it," he says, referring to those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain was not a open country, if it did not offer my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I always loved. I trust this phase will fade."
The Younger Generation's Awareness
He draws solace in the younger generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They discuss implicit prejudice – I was not even aware what that was."
His formative years would shape a groundbreaking career characterised by boldness and inclusivity. Enninful set a precedent as the first man, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to take the helm at British Vogue. His time featured historic front pages showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, curvy models, an octogenarian, and individuals from varied communities. Significantly, sales increased.
"To overlook large portions of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s bad for business," he states.
A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'
He has since founded his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since leaving his previous role. He expresses a desire to continue being a "disruptor".
"I’ve always questioned the status quo. I was born and raised in a place where the majority was Black – the physicians, the lawyers, the leader. Then we came to England, penniless, and I was a minority. I was painfully reserved. My teachers predicted I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the Sus laws … this duality gave me a unique perspective on the inside and the outside."
Defying the popular image of fashion editors as loud and temperamental, Enninful is calm and projects peace. His journey has included its share of challenges, including openly discussed struggles with depression and addiction.
He has also endured significant health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in partial sight. "I was in such a time of fear for two years, away from work, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I thought, if this ever is over, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."
Curating a Cultural Era
This refusal to fit into a box has led him beyond the world that built his career. He is now organising a seminal 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a roster of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to capture the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and highlight those who lacked a spotlight at the time.
"Institutions didn't always celebrate the right artists because they weren't of the right pedigree," he states.
The magazine 72 itself functions with a novel business model, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "The question is, what can we do together? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is a piece within a broader vision."
Looking Forward Without Fear
Currently, Enninful operates as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His path, he believes, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions.
What would the Edward of the 90s make of the man he has become? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be impressed. At that time I was a rebel. I didn't think institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me."
He reflects. "Gratitude is key. We fled, we left our homeland. I came close to losing my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have counted me out my entire life. But I am unstoppable once I’ve set my intention to do something."
